Strolling the beach at Sayulita
Walk through the local cemetery…
… to the Beach of the Dead
Over the years, American tourists have flocked to the heavily marketed Mexican beach resorts of Cancun, Cabo San Lucas, Mazatlan, and Puerto Vallarta. But sometimes getting away from the maddening crowd is good for the soul. The only problem is: when people find a nice, quiet little “authentic” Mexican town, they can’t resist telling everybody. And if that nice, quiet place is discovered by a national travel publication, that little secret gets out in a hurry.
Such a place is Sayulita. Located about an hour north of Puerto Vallarta, the town is fun, friendly, and… exploding at the seams. People started descending about ten years ago. This quaint little surfing village became the place to be. And it’s grown ever since. But the good news is that the surfing, which was always good, and a great place for beginners to learn, remains. But now there is more boutique lodging, shopping, services, and fabulous restaurants serving everything from upscale meals overlooking the ocean, to small, tucked away street taco stands that will blow you away.
So, let’s start with the beaches. There’s the main beach in town, or for a short walk, check out Playa de los Muertos, the Beach of the Dead. And yes, you do have to walk through the town cemetery to get to it. If you want to surf, either rent a board or take a lesson, there’s plenty of shops, but I suggest you call the folks at WildMex Surf & Adventure. You can also contact WildMex for a lot more: mountain biking, snorkeling, diving, nature trail hiking, horseback riding, and they can even arrange for deep sea fishing. I met the owner, Javier, on a recent visit, and can assure you that he and his staff are true adventure travel experts.
If, after a nice, active day, or even a nice, inactive day, you are looking for a good meal, check at Don Pedro’s on the beach. Been around since 1994. Everything from the guacamole and chips to the calamari appetizer, to the grilled mahi-mahi, or a huge whole lobster. You can relax as much as you want, or go as upscale as your mood requires. A listener recommended Los Corazones and it was not only delicious, but as nice a presentation as you will find at any restaurant anywhere. Also, a short drive, or cab ride, is Si Senor in Punta Mita. The waves lapping beneath your table, the sand floor, the setting sun. They will bring you the selection of the fish of the day, and after you select, turn it into a knock out ceviche, grill it or sautéed it, whatever makes you happy.
Finally, any discussion of Sayulita and its attributes has to include the little taco places, either sit down or counters where you can stand and eat, that line every street in town. Grilled fish, shrimp, chicken, steak, even vegetarian options. Fresh, made that day, flour or corn tortillas. More salsas than you knew existed. On a recent eight day trip my daughter and I made it a point not to eat at the same place twice. Haha, you have to be disciplined because every meal is so good, you are tempted to go back again and again to the same place. My advice? Don’t do it.
OK, I know you like the condo in PV you are used to, or the all inclusive beach front resort you have been going to for years. I get it. But if you decide to venture out a bit, Sayulita is a place you will be talking about for a long time.
